What causes waves in the sea?
Waves are caused by winds. Particles of moving air brush against molecules of water on the ocean’s surface imparting energy to them by the process of collision.
The height of the waves is related to the amount of energy transferred to the water by the wind. The speed of the wind, the length of time the wind blows and the distance the wind blows over the open sea are the three factors that determine the height of the waves which in stormy weather can reach heights of 30 metres or more.
By the time the waves reach the shore they’re usually much diminished in size.
