Gold Jewellery
For many eons, human beings have used jewellery to enhance their beauty. Through the course of history, jewellery has been made out of animal bones and claws, mud, ceramics, precious metals, glass, gems and stones. Let’s look at the some of the different styles of jewellery found in India.
History of jewellery: Jewellery dates back to almost 75,000 years ago when it was made from animal hide and reeds and decorated with animal and fish teeth, bones, shells, berries, pebbles, feathers, tusks and antlers. When humans discovered metals like silver, gold, platinum, titanium, brass and iron and also about their positive effects on the human body, they started making metal jewellery.
Significance of jewellery: With human evolution, jewellery moved from being mere pieces of beauty to status symbols and objects of financial security. People started wearing jewellery as fashion accessories to express themselves. Pieces of jewellery also became heirlooms that were passed on from generation to generation and down the family tree. Jewellery continues to be one of the most valuable possessions owned by mankind.
Jewellery of India: According to archeological evidence, the first use of jewellery in India dates back to the Indus Valley Civilisation. People used sharp stones to create jewellery using the technique of polychromy-painting stone beads in different colours. When the Mughals invaded India, they brought with them the technique of gemstone setting and introduced Indians to the use of gems and metals in jewellery making. Their designs were detailed and royal and this made jewellery accessible to only a few, making it a symbol of social status in India.
Diamonds: Diamonds are one of the few stones that find universal appeal in jewellery. Diamonds were first discovered by Indians in 400 B.C. Their refracting powers made them unique and valuable. Hindus believe that diamonds were created when lightning struck and the first diamond was presented by Lord Krishna to Radha to complement her beauty. Hence they are considered lucky and believed to have curing powers. Diamonds are also considered to protect wearers from evil spirits. Indians also became skilled at the technique of diamond drilling (used to extract diamonds from earth), which they taught the world. The first use of diamonds in jewellery was in 1074 A.D., when the queen of Hungary demanded a diamond in her crown.
Filigree: The process of making this type of jewellery involves joining really thin silver wires together to shape a piece of jewellery. These pieces are not engraved, carved or moulded and thus require high technicality and patience to create. This style is very popular in the eastern states of India.
Navratna: Navratna jewellery originated in India and is still considered to be religiously significant. The pieces are made using nine gems - diamond, ruby, yellow and blue sapphire, emerald, coral, pearl, hessonite and cat's eye. These jewels are believed to have supernatural powers as they are all connected to celestial bodies. Due to this belief, many people wear this type of jewellery as lucky charms just like kings did in the ancient times.
Meenakari: Meenakari is the Persian art of colouring the surface of metals by fusing brilliant colours. The art was brought to Varanasi by Persian enamellists around the early 17th century during the Mughal era. Images of Gods or animal figures are engraved on the metal, which are then filled with coloured enamel. This technique makes the piece of jewellery unique. The rising demand for this type of jewellery makes it expensive.
Jadau: Jadau is made by embedding stones or crystals in gold. The technique to make this style of jewellery was brought to India by the Mughals. This type of jewellery is found in North India and is popular amongst brides.
Kundan: Kundan originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and is very similar to jadau as it is made using the technique of embedding. However, in this form, craftsmen embed glass or uncut diamonds, instead of gems, in gold. The content of gold is less as craftsmen focus on showcasing the coloured glass or diamonds. The process of making this jewellery is time consuming and requires detailing, which is why it is quite expensive.
Ivory jewellery: Jewellery made by carving ivory (derived from elephant tusks) is called ivory jewellery. Usually, bangles and thick necklaces were made from ivory as the raw material (tusks) is not malleable. However, using elephant tusks is now banned and craftsmen create the ivory look from hard plastic.
Pachchikam: Pachchikam jewellery has numerous theories surrounding its origin. Some believe it was created by Europeans and reached India through trade and others believe it was originally created in India. This type of jewellery is very similar to Kundan as both use uncut diamonds and coloured glass. However, this style is a lot more delicate. Unlike Kundan, only silver is used as a base for this jewellery, making it reasonably priced.
Thewa: Thewa is a special art of jewellery making, which involves fusing a layer of intricately carved 23 carat gold or silver on molten coloured glass. This style dates back to the Mughal era. The word 'thewa' originates from Rajasthan and literally means 'setting'.
