The story of coffee in India
The tale of how coffee, a humble bean, found its roots in India is an intriguing one and involves ancient source trades, a daring heist, colonial expansion and the mushrooming of digital platforms.
The origins:
Though its historical roots can be traced to Africa, it was Yemen in West Asia which emerged as the powerhouse of coffee cultivation, exporting the commodity to all corners of the then-known World. Arab merchants who were engaged in trade with India, the epicenter of the spice trade, introduced roasted coffee to the subcontinent, where it quickly captivated the elites, sparkling a surge in demand.
As the demand for the bean outpaced supply, it was clear that the commodity had to be locally grown. But many factors prevented this. To retain their monopoly over coffee cultivation, Yemeni farmers and producers allowed only roasted beans to be sold. The penalty for the sale of green coffee beans was death.
The heist:
In 1670, Indian Sufi saint Baba Budan, who was returning from pilgrimage to Mecca, was by chance exposed to coffee in Yemen. After learning as much as possible about the bean, he devised ways to bring the seeds back home. He hid seven beans in his beard and cane, and made the long voyage back to India.
Once he was home, he planted the beans on the slopes of Chandragiri Hills in Chikkamangaluru, Karnataka. This act not only marked the genesis of coffee cultivation in India but also sowed the seeds of a thriving coffee culture that would spread across the country. The hills are now referred to as the Baba Budangiri Hills and a shrine has been built there in his honour.
The expansion:
If this was the inception of coffee cultivation in India, colonial expansion proved to be the turning point. In the 18th century, realising the potential of the Indian climate for coffee cultivation, the British began large-scale plantations in the southern states. To date, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu form the core of the traditional coffee-growing region, contributing a whopping 92% of the country’s coffee production.
The French influence on Indian coffee cannot be discounted. It is evident in the use of chicory, a roasted root vegetable that adds a characteristic earthy bitterness to the coffee. Indeed this era saw the establishment of systematic cultivation methods.
Notable among them is the development of the Monsoon Malabar coffee, a unique process adapting to the challenges of sea transport.
The industry:
Post independence, India witnessed a significant shift in the coffee industry with the establishment of the Indian Coffee Board and the enactment of the Coffee Act of 1942. These developments facilitated a more organised and supportive environment for coffee growers, leading to the predominance of small holder production. Today, a significant percentage of coffee growers in India are small farmers. These years also saw coffee being cultivated beyond the traditional belt--- to the eastern coasts of Andhra Pradesh and Odisha and to the northeastern states. This diversification introduced a variety of microclimates and terroirs, contributing to the unique profiles of Indian coffee, including the distinctive Indian-monsooned coffee.
The culture:
Coffee in India has transcended its status as merely a crop. Today, it has woven itself into the cultural fabric. Especially in the south where traditional filter coffee is a revered daily ritual.
The digital age has ushered in a new chapter for Indian coffee, with the emergence of exclusive brands and the rise of online marketplaces. This transformation has democratised access to premium coffee, allowing consumers to enjoy high-quality brews with the click of a button.
From the daring heist of Baba Budan to the digital marketplace, the evolution of Indian coffee is as refreshing as the beverage itself.
